July 29, 2011 Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

I was cold last night.  So cold, in fact, that I was the last one out of the tents this morning and had Karl sit on my feet for a while until feeling in them was restored.  It definitely warmed up throughout the day, but I was never uncomfortable in my long-sleeve t-shirt.  Tomorrow is supposed to be a balmy 82 degrees. 

We started the day back at Old Faithful.  We were driving up as it was spewing, but since we saw it 3 times yesterday, we didn’t really miss anything.  The kids finished their Jr. Scientist booklets and were sworn in by Ranger Jim.

Ranger Jim:  [inspecting Karl’s book] Oh, you got to see Beehive go off.  I love that one. 

Karl:  The Ear Pool was my favorite.

Ranger Jim:  You know Geyser Hill used to be called Hell’s Half Acre and Ear Pool was Devil’s Ear Pool.  But they took all the scary names out.

Gerry:  I know what you mean.  A highway where we live used to be called NM666.

Ranger Jim:  I guess they did that everywhere.

Karl:  Can I get the keychain and the badge?

We checked out the museum and a few videos then unloaded the bikes for a ride to Upper Geyser Basin and Biscuit Basin to take in the sights.  The guide books are correct when they mention that all you have to do is go about 0.5 miles off the main path and you will generally have the area to yourself.  The bike ride between the two areas took us through pine forests where we saw exactly 2 others.  Despite the crowds, the geysers, pools and fumaroles were very cool.  I mean, hot. 

Sapphire Pool - Biscuit Basin

Bacteria Flats - Upper Geyser Basin

Morning Glory Pool - Upper Geyser Basin

Grotto Geyser - Upper Geyser Basin

I was reminded today to extend grace to my fellow tourists.  We nearly ran over a few while biking.

Me:  To your left!

Tourist:  [Dirty Look]

Me:  To your left!

Tourist:  [Dirty Look]

Gerry thinks it is possible that there were many non-English speakers in the crowd.  He may have a point.  And at Biscuit Basin, I was trying to decide which boardwalk to go down while at the same time wrangling Billy.

Tourist:  We walk on the right here, miss.

Me:  [Smile. Nod.]

We spent the afternoon taking in the sights on the way up to Mammoth Hot Springs.  We say many hydrothermal vents, proving to ourselves that Earth’s crust is indeed very thin here in Yellowstone. 

trafficstoppus elkii

Monkeys in the park

Mammoth Hot Springs

Norris Geyser Basin

We got the equivalent of fast food for dinner since it was so late when we arrived back to camp.  It was just as bad as you would expect.  But there were no dishes.  Hooray!

July 28, 2011 Yellowstone National Park, Wyoming

We sadly said goodbye to GTNP this morning.  We arose early, packed up camp, and were on the road by 8:30.  After a brief stop to swear in GTNP’s newest Jr. Rangers and grab a coffee, we headed north to Yellowstone.  It took all of 1 hour.

We drove the Yellowstone Lake Drive when we arrived, then headed over to Old Faithful to picnic, watch the show and check out the Visitor Center.  I’m pretty sure I was in shock for the first hour we walked around.  People abound.  There were THOUSANDS of us.  And it is still the middle of the week.  What’s going to happen tomorrow and Saturday?

Heart Pool

Old Faithful from Observation Point, a 500 ft vertical climb
and therefore few other tourists

Beehive Geyser from Observation Point

The kids signed up for the Jr. Ranger and Jr. Scientist program and off we went.  We saw OF 3 times, plus the many geysers and pools in the nearby area.  Time ran out on us and we had to leave early to set up camp before Billy’s blood sugar crashed.  Too late! 

The various ways Yellowstone is the Disneyworld of the national park system:

• There is way too much to see in 2-3 days.
• The tour package is probably worth it.
• Copious amounts of kids who do not seem to have parents.
• Crowds at the information desk and lines to see the sights.
• Parking is an issue.
• You can’t walk/bike from one major area to another.
• Mosquitos.

Camping for this long is changing the way I see the world.  For instance, I’m starting to see the benefit of paper plates, plastic forks, Rolo cups, disposable water bottles, etc.  After washing dishes twice a day in glacial water (literally!) without a sink or drainer, I’m ready to throw every regular plate, spoon and coffee mug in the trash.  It’s getting colder too.  Gerry maintains that if I keep my head warmer, I’ll be just fine.  I keep telling him that it isn't my head that’s cold, it’s my feet.  I used to not be able to sleep on my back, but after 36 degrees tonight, I may just have to cocoon up.  After 10 days of camping and 6 more to go, I’m not sure I’m going to make it.  

July 27, 2011 Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming

Today was one of those really great vacation days. 

Gerry got up early and biked 8.5 miles to have breakfast at Dornan’s in Moose.  Check his facebook page to see the view from the outdoor patio.  At 8 or so, I loaded up the kids and picked him up, bike and all.  When we got back to camp, I loaded Billy on my bike and went for an 8 mile ride myself while Gerry did day-trip preparations at the camp.  Wow, what a view.

Grand Teton

L to R: South Teton, Middle Teton, Grand Teton, Mount Owen, Teewinot

We picnicked and hiked at String Lake in the afternoon.  One of the great things about Grand Tetons with the kids is that the lake hikes are fairly level and very scenic.  

Mount Moran

See Grand Teton in the back?

Afterwards, we drove up to Colter Bay to swim in Jackson Lake and shower/laundry.  On the way, we joined a large mob to gawk at 2 moose eating willow at a pond.  I never got a good camera photo, but I have a great mental picture.

Note the lack of other swimmers

After dinner, we drove back to the Willow Flats Overlook to see if we could glimpse more moose, but instead were chased back into the car by ~2.5 million mosquitos.  All the way back to camp you could hear random slaps and claps from the backseat. 

July 26, 2011 Jackson, Wyoming

We floated the Snake River today.  It was a short trip downstream – 1.5 hours – which was just the right length for the kids.  Our guide indicated that the river has been very high all season due to the copious snowfall in the winter (745 inches!!) which made large mammal viewing poor, but made the bird watching great.  We saw 4 bald eagles, 1 osprey, 1 red-tailed hawk, 5 fresh-water pelicans, a handful of Canada geese and sandhill cranes, and of course, Karl caught a toad while we were having lunch. 

Guide:  Does he do this often?

Gerry:   Yep.  At the Grand Canyon he caught a horned toad and collared lizard. 

Guide:  Impressive.

Captain Karl

Captain Lindsay

View from the river

After lunch, we resupplied in Jackson at the biggest Albertson’s I’ve ever seen.  (Did I mention that block ice is my new best friend?)  In the meat section, they have an entire open freezer cooler full of elk and bison hamburger and steaks.  Guess what we’re having for dinner tomorrow.

After shopping, we strolled the plaza in Jackson – or is it a ‘square’ up here?  I can’t remember – and bought a few souvenirs.  Both Gerry and I wished we could ditch the kids for a night and hang out at the local saloon and tour the town a little better.  But the campground beckoned.

Dinner was followed by traditional camping fare, s’mores.  I also learned to cook popcorn in tinfoil which was very good – think Jiffy-pop without the nifty pan.  

This deer wandered through our campsite 2 nights in a row

Sticky S'mores

"Can we watch a movie?"

Doing make-overs, fireside

Camping Essentials 

July 25, 2011 Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming

As predicted, Lindsay was up at 5:30 with the sun. It is time to revive the Just Because The Sun Is Up Doesn't Mean You Have To Be speech.

I went for a short walk this morning to take in the views and get some much needed exercise.  Wow, this place is unbelievably beautiful.  My camera is certainly getting a workout.

Grand Teton

The Cathedral Group

We took the ferry across Jenny Lake this morning and hiked to the aptly named Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point.  They were…um…hidden and inspiring.  The kids were awesome and hiked the entire 2 miles. 

After lunch and a few failed attempts at computer connections, we headed north to Colter Bay on Jackson Lake for a brief lakeside hike followed by showers and laundry. 

Karl:  I don’t remember this part of the park.

Lindsay:  That’s because you were sleeping when we came up here yesterday.

Karl:  How long did I sleep?

Lindsay:  Well if you cut a pizza like this and then like this, it was this long.

Karl:  15 minutes?

Lindsay:  Yes.

Lindsay wanted to swim in the glacial water and managed to get in all the way up to her armpits.  Brave, brave girl.  

Mount Moran from the shores of Jackson Lake

Jackson Lake

July 24, 2011 Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming

We left Pinedale at 6:30 am, temperature 36° F.  Brrr.  We saw multiple antelope and one bald eagle on the drive to Jackson, Wyoming in addition to cows, horses and sheep.  The goal was to arrive at the Jenny Lake Campground in Grand Teton early enough to secure a campsite for the next four nights.  Mission Accomplished.

View from our campsite.  That's Grand Teton

 The various bear warnings are a frequent and a bit disconcerting and therefore, we are taking them seriously.

BE BEAR AWARE

A FED BEAR IS A DEAD BEAR 

So when Gerry dropped the Costco-size maple syrup out of the van while unpacking our gear, he made every effort to clean it all up. 

Cleaning syrup with an ax is no easy feat

We had a low-key day, exploring two visitor centers, biking around the lake, and finally driving to the north end of the park to explore a little.  We crossed Jackson Lake Dam and tried not to hit the other tourists who just stop in the middle of the road for potential wildlife sightings. 

Lindsay:  Look!  They have crab pots!

Gerry:  No, those are just buoys showing the boats where to drive.

Lindsay:  Oh.

The bikes have been great to have.

Standing in Jenny Lake

Bedtime came early since everyone was completely wiped out.  But it is difficult to sleep when it is still light out at 9:30.

July 23, 2011 Pinedale, Wyoming

I’m sitting in the laundry room at the Bayview hotel in Pinedale, Wyoming.  I have to sit here because the dryer takes two runs and the laundry room is crowded.  If you leave and your dryer turns off, your clothes are instantly shelved.  This does not make me miss dorm life AT ALL.

But the rest of the day was pretty good.  And I have some time for writing. 

I started the day by hiking the river trail close to our campground at Dinosaur.  It was a 2 mile loop that ran along the Green River.  The vistas were heavenly, as was the solitude.  After I returned to camp, Gerry took off for the same hike.  He had just finished cooking pancakes for the kids and was starting to pack up the gear.  After he returned and the car was completely packed, we headed out for the Dinosaur visitor center where we were to catch a shuttle bus for the fossil exhibit.  That turned out to be a bust, but the kids still got their Jr. Ranger badges.  2 parks down, 3 to go.

Pancakes!

The swearing in ceremony for the Jr. Ranger

We drove across the Flaming Gorge dam – very impressive.  The recreation area looks like so much fun but at 68 degrees, the water is a little cold for my taste.  Both Gerry and I plan to read more about John Wesley Powell when we return to New Mexico.  His journal entries alone are quite entertaining. 

A whirlwind comes and scatters the fire among the dead willows and cedar-spray, and soon there is a conflagration.  The cook fills his arms with the mess kit, and, jumping into a boat, stumbles and falls, and away go our cooking utensils into the river.

Flaming Gorge Reservoir

Flaming Gorge Dam

All along Hwy 191, there are signs indicating the period the rocks, bluffs and outcroppings formed – Cambrian, Cretaceous, etc.  Cool!  The rest of the drive into Wyoming was scenic as well.  Those green dots on the highway maps don’t lie. 

Gerry:  What has 6,000 wings and doesn’t fly?

Me:  What?

Gerry:  The front of our minivan.

We pulled into Pinedale, population 1200, at about 4 pm.  We dined at the Lakeside Lodge, a hidden wonder!  The food was overpriced, but the V&T, view of the lake, and outdoor seating greatly made up for it.  The local grocery store looks like a mash up between Cabela’s and Smith’s – elk heads hanging over the Tillamook cheese and camping gear mixed in with the vitamins.

WHERE'S OUR FOOD???

View from our table

Tomorrow, we travel to Grand Tetons.  Prayers requested for a campsite.   

July 22, 2011 Dinosaur National Monument, Utah

For us, finding Dinosaur National Monument was a little like finding an actual dinosaur fossil – easy if you are in the right location and paying attention; difficult if you read the map wrong or are distracted by the tour book.  Needless to say, we drove 1 hour in the wrong direction when leaving Price this morning.  Then, when we actually got here, we went to the wrong entrance to the park, adding another hour onto the trip.  But the drive was gorgeous.  I still maintain that Utah is one of the most scenic states in the lower 48.  From the red slickrock of Arches and Canyonlands to the towers of Bryce and Zion to the majesty of the Wasatch and Uinta mountains, it really can’t be beat.  We’ll see if I change my tune in Wyoming and Montana.

There are only 2 roads in Dinosaur for a minivan as loaded as ours, so we saw almost as much of the park as possible today.  It is amazing.  I had no idea that the Green River made such a gorge.  The actual dinosaur portion is only 80 acres or so out of 200K+.  That was a surprise.  We will visit there tomorrow and hike a little before heading up to Grand Tetons a day early. 

Green River Gorge

View from our campsite

The Green River Campground on site is lovely.  The river runs right by it and I can hear it gurgling as I type.  The weather is so nice that we have forgone the tent and are sleeping outside tonight.  Karl and Lindsay are currently exclaiming over the bats that are swooping by, for which I am very grateful.  There are quite a few bugs around.  Many of the other campers are rafting the river, which seems fun.  We hear the fly fishing is good too, so a return trip may be warranted. 

This campground is self-serve and very low key.  The kids spent an hour or so biking the 3 loops.  We had to go search for Karl at dinner time.  He returned full of bulletin board knowledge on the local endangered fish and an envelope.

Me:  Karl, put that envelope down and have dinner.

Karl:  They have a bunch of them up there at the check in station. The sign said Free Envelope.

Me:  No, Karl.  It said FEE Envelope.

Gerry:  Get $12 and go return it.  You’re sponsoring us tonight.

Karl:  WHAT?!

Karl won the First Roadrash Award when his Keen was tangled in his tire.  He’s OK, but sleeping on the ground isn’t going to help.  I’ve added large-size bandaids to the shopping list.

After a week of camping, pedicures were in order

Ack!  My screen is full of bugs!  Good night!!

[Insert Computer Bug Joke Here]